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Cangrande I |
Before I move from Lake
Garda to our stay in Verona, I think I should mention the Scaligeri (also known
as Della Scala) family who dominated the area in mediaeval times. Throughout
the area there stands reminders of the family & their influence.
Almost every village or
town on the eastern side of Lake Garda has its castle, or remains of one. Their
symbol of ladders (“scala) abound. All of them date back to the days of the Scaligeris.
Even places we didn’t visit, such as Malescine has one. Verona, the home of the
Scaligeris, has one of the finest. It is now an impressive gallery of mediaeval
art. Verona also has their tombs & at least one magnificent church which
they patronised.
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Remnant of the Scaligeri castle, Bardolino |
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Scaligeri castle, Torri del Benaco as seen from the cross lake car ferry |
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Lazise castle |
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Scaligeri castle at Sirmione
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To the left the shield of the Scaligeri with its ladder over the entrance to the castle, Sirmione |
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So who were these
people? They ruled Verona & the area around during the late 13th
& 14th century. They were true warlords, vicious with a lust for
power, softened sometimes by a love of the arts. Most of them had dog nicknames
so there was “Cangrande” (“Big dog”), “Mastino” (“Mastiff”) & “Cansignorio”
(“Lord Dog”). They ruled by force & didn’t hesitate to kill one another in
their greed for power. Altogether not the sort of people I would like to know,
but perhaps that was the only sort of people who could provide some sort of
order in a lawless period of history.
Bartholomeo della Scala,
was perhaps a bit of an exception. It was he, with the support & power of
his older brother Cangrande I, who provided safety to Dante in his exile.
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Statue of Dante, Piazza dei Signori, Verona |
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