Crossing the Circle

 

The globe that marks the Arctic Circle

Crossing the Arctic Circle was marked ceremonially in both directions. In both cases I was too cowardly to volunteer to take part in the ceremonies.

The arrival of King Neptune

On the way north there was a competition to guess the moment we would cross the Circle. Later that morning King Neptune arrived to give the prize. The prize came in two parts, the first, exclusive to the winner, was the flag that had been flying when we crossed the Circle. The second part involved having a ladleful of icy cold water, complete with ice cubes, poured down your back inside your clothes. The reward for enduring this was a free glass of a Norwegian spirit. After the winner had been given her prize, others could queue up for the second part of the prize. As I say cowardice won with me. I was amazed by how many people did queue up to take part. I just watched. As the queue disappeared, an American lady stood next to me noticed there still seemed to be plenty of glasses of the alcohol untouched & got a couple of them, one for her & one for me. She went a second time. We both had the sense to avoid the ice cubes.

 

King Neptune with barrel of icy water

Ladlefuls of iced water

Coming south it was a different ceremony. No King Neptune this time. Instead you had to have a spoonful of cod liver oil. Like most people of my vintage or older, I still remember the truly repulsive spoonfuls of cod liver oil that I was given as a child. During & after the Second World War in this country, food, & even sunlight during bombings, was in short supply. Cod liver oil was given as a food supplement to keep you healthy. Much as I could see this cod liver oil was a  lighter colour, & so probably cleaner & higher quality, than that of my childhood, not even the consolation of a free glass of champagne to wash it down could tempt me to try it. I just watched on & thought what fools they were as they queued up.

One person eager for her cod liver oil

We have come home with certificates to prove we have crossed the Arctic Circle but I can’t say either of us value them. The Fox had been too ill to cope with coming on deck to watch the ceremonies. He barely noticed he’d crossed the line.