In the footsteps of Julie Andrews

It is almost impossible to visit the Salzkammergut region of Austria without coming up with references to the film “The Sound of Music”. There were even tours specifically devoted to seeing all the locations seen in the film. We did not sign up for that. (We prefer to do our discovering by ourselves so rarely sign up for organised visits, especially when they usually involve inaccessible coaches.) However some things were unmissable. Even if they were not the exact place in the film they were reminiscent & duly reminded you.

One place which undoubtedly featured in the film was St Michael’s Basilica at Mondsee. This was where the wedding between Maria & the Captain von Trapp took place.

St Michael's Basilca Mondsee

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              It is a beautiful building, worthy of visiting regardless of any references to the “Sound of Music”. The pink & white ceiling gives the building a delicate light & airy feel, despite the black & gold rich, almost over-rich, ornamentation. It is quite fabulous. The monastery it was originally a part of was dissolved in 1791 but the church remains a parish church. It is clearly lovingly looked after. It dominates the village of Mondsee.

                                  

Interior of the basilca

The altar of the basilica

The basilca dominating the village

 One aspect of the Basilica that did come as a surprise to us was the fresco on the outside , down one side. It had been painted as a memorial to the horrors of the  two World Wars. It doesn't even seem to get a mention in the guidebook of the church we bought. Nonetheless it is forceful.         

            

The fresco

                                                                                                                                                                                                               

The other place instantly recognisable is the Hohensalzburg fortress as it dominates & stands guard over the city of Salzburg. This is where the fleeing Von Trapp family gave their final concert. We didn’t go up to it. The funicular that takes you up has steps to climb at the fortress end.  Our Satnav determinedly tried to go up to the castle in the car. We started off up the narrow, cobbled streets & decided this was no way for us to drive, especially in a car we weren’t familiar with.

The Hohensalzburg fortress, high above the Old Town

We did, however, wander around the Old Town part of Salzburg. We came across the horse fountain which the Fox reckons comes early on in the film when Maria stops to question how she is going to cope in the secular world away from the convent.

The horse fountain Salzburg

 

St Peter’s Cemetery provided another reminded. Along the cliff walls there are various tombs in railed off areas. It was easy to imagine the family hiding behind the huge tombstones as they tried to make their escape. It was probably one of the best kept cemeteries I’ve ever visited, with flowers everywhere.

St Peter's Cemetery Salzburg

A tour of film sights was not our priority on this or any other trip.  Nonetheless the hills in the region are indeed alive with the sound of music.

Another aspect of Imperial Vienna

Another aspect of Imperial Austria was reflected in the reverence, & number of residences, dedicated to musicians.

Just around the corner from Stephansdom, Vienna’s cathedral, is Mozarthaus, where Mozart lived.  Turn another corner & you are in Grünangasse, named after a tavern frequented by Schubert. The Griechenbeisl, where we dined on   our wedding anniversary, counted among its past patrons the likes of Beethoven, Schubert, Wagner, Strauss & Brahms.

The Greichenbeisl

The Burggarten, next to the Hofburg Palace gives home to a Mozart Memorial. In what was the suburbs of Vienna, stands the house Haydn had built, & is now a museum dedicated to him. The Opera House has a room devoted to Mahler. References to all the classical greats can be found here in Vienna

At one point we decided to have a bit of a walk around the Stadtpark. Soon we discovered the gilded statue of Johann Strauss II. As we continued around the lake we discovered other statues of worthies, including Schubert.

Johann Strauss II

Franz Schubert

Vienna was by no means the only place with classical music references. After a few days we returned to Salzburg & to a small village called Fuschl am See. 

Salzburg, of course, is famed as the birthplace of Mozart. Sure enough, one of the first things we saw on our day trip to explore the old part of Salzburg was Mozart’s birthplace, now open to the public. Needless to say his parents lived on just one floor of this building.

Mozart's birthplace, Salzburg.

We were more surprised on a trip to another nearby village, St Gilgen, there too were reminders of Mozart. His mother apparently came from St Gilgen & his sister lived there after her marriage. As we drove into the village, we were struck by a statue of a small man playing a violin. This was Mozartplatz. Mozart apparently conducted the orchestra with his violin.  His sister’s home is now a museum to her illustrious brother. 

Mozartplatz, St Gilgen

Music abounded, with recitals everywhere. Even the village we stayed in provided twice weekly, dependent on weather, open air concerts, mainly of classical music. We did go along one evening but didn’t stay long as it was too cold.